Whether you’re curled up on the couch with a warm drink or heading out for a laid-back day, the Wrenley Oversized Crochet Cardigan Pattern has you covered—literally. Designed with comfort in mind and style at heart, this cozy layer features a beautifully textured woven stitch that instantly elevates even the simplest outfit.
The relaxed, oversized fit makes it easy to throw on and go, while the timeless design lets you dress it up with boots and accessories or keep it casual with your everyday basics. And it’s the kind of piece you’ll reach for again and again—the one that feels just as good at home as it does out and about. Because of its coziness, versatility, and effortless style, just like my best selling Emilie Oversized Cardi, this Oversized Crochet Cardigan Pattern is a true wardrobe favorite in the making.

One of my favorite parts when creating this crochet cardigan was getting to work with the Tilted Pair stitch, which creates a beautifully rich texture. When paired with Lion Brand Heartland yarn, the design truly comes to life—the yarn is wonderfully soft and available in a range of stunning colors. Combined with a stitch pattern that works up quickly, the project felt effortless and fun, making every row a pleasure to crochet. For more inspiration, check out the Wrenley Vest & Cardi, which also uses the Tilted Pair crochet stitch.
Above all, the crochet cardigan pattern includes a step-by-step video tutorial and written instructions for sizes XS–5X. Furthermore, you can easily adjust the length to make it longer and extra warm – the choice is yours!
Supplies Needed
The Yarn
Lion Brand Heartland Yarn is one of my favorite yarns to work with. It works up beautifully, feels soft, and comes in so many gorgeous colors. And the Grand Canyon color? It’s to die for! That warm, golden shade is absolutely beautiful and gives the finished project such a cozy look.
You can get all the yarn you need to make your crochet cardigan, along with the printable PDF pattern, in one convenient bundle from Lion Brand HERE.
If you’re looking for a yarn substitution, Caron Simply Soft is another favorite. I used it for my Wrenley Vest or Cardigan, and I loved how soft and comfortable it felt while still being easy to crochet with.
For a more budget-friendly option, Hobby Lobby Crafter Secrets Big Idea and Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice are both great alternatives. I used Vanna’s Choice for my Emilie Cardigan, and it worked up beautifully without breaking the bank.
Need help choosing a substitute? Check out my guide on How to Choose the Right Yarn for Crochet Garments.

#4 Medium Weight, 251 yds / 230 m, 5 oz / 142 g, 100% Acrylic.
Shown in Acadia (Short) and Grand Canyon (Long).
Crochet Hooks
Notions
Gauge
Band & Collar – with the smaller hook: 4″ X 4″ = 12 sts X 7.5 rows of hdc blo.
Cuffs – with the smaller hook: 4″ X 4″ = 12 sts X 12 rows of sc blo.
Body & Sleeves – with the larger hook: 4″ X 4″ = 10 sts X 9 rows of [(sc, dc), sk]
Gauge Pattern:
Row 1: Ch any odd #, sc in 2nd ch, *[(sc, dc), sk] rep from*, sc in last st, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st, *[(sc, dc), sk] rep from*, sc in last, turn.
Rep row 2 until desired length.

Check out the Video Tutorial
Purchase the ad free PDF
Finally, you may purchase the Wrenley Oversized Cardi, which includes the ad-free PDF with full written instructions, schematics, a size chart, and gauge information.
ETSY
RAVELRY
You can get all the yarn you need to make your crochet cardigan, along with the printable PDF pattern, in one convenient bundle from Lion Brand HERE.
Construction
First, the body is worked flat in three pieces — one back panel and two front panels. Not only are the sleeves crocheted directly onto the body in joined and turned rounds — easy, seamless, and so satisfying to watch come to life — but the ribbing is also added as you go for a beautifully clean finish.
Abbreviations
- ch(s): chain(s)
- dc: double crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- hdc blo: half double crochet in the back loop only
- pm: place marker
- rep: repeat
- RS: right side
- sc: single crochet
- sc blo: single crochet in the back loop only
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- WS: wrong side
- YO: yarn over
Special Stitches
SINGLE CROCHET 2 TOGETHER – sc2tog: Insert hook in st, YO, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up another loop, YO and pull up all 3 loops on hook.
Notes
- The stitch count will be displayed as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) sts. If there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
- Row 3 to row 20 (22, 22, 28, 28) (34, 34, 38, 38): means rep from row 3 to row 20 for size XS, row 3 to row 22 for size S etc.
- The stitch pattern [(sc, dc), sk]: (sc, dc), which means work 1 sc and 1 dc in the same st (dc from the previous row) then sk the next st (sc from the previous row).
- The beginning ch does not count as a st unless specified.
- Pm on the 1st st to not lose sts.
Pattern
BACK PANEL
BAND
Row 1: With the smaller hook, starting with a slip knot, ch 10, hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in each of the remaining chs, turn. (9) sts
Row 2 : Ch 1, hdc blo in 1st st, work 1 hdc blo in each st across, turn.
Rows 3 to 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64): Rep row 2.
- Do not fasten off and turn band lengthwise.
- With the larger hook: Ch 1 and sc 48 (52, 56, 64, 68) (72, 76, 84, 88) evenly along the length of the band, turn. 48 (52, 56, 64, 68) (72, 76, 84, 88) sts
BODY
Row 1: (WS) With the larger hook, ch 1, sc in the 1st st – pm in the 1st st here and the 1st st of the next row – move markers up at every row – *(sc, dc) in the next st, sk next st, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 48 (52, 56, 64, 68) (72, 76, 84, 88) sts
SHORT – Rows 2 to 48: Rep row 1.
LONG – Rows 2 to 56: Rep row 1.
- To adjust the length of the body add or subtract rows here, bearing in mind that
1″ = 2.25 rows, finishing on a RS row and making sure to adjust all other panels.
- Fasten off.
FRONT PANELS
RIGHT FRONT PANEL – BAND
Row 1: With the smaller hook, starting with a slip knot, ch 10, hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in each of the remaining chs, turn. (9) sts.
Row 2 : Ch 1, hdc blo in 1st st, work 1 hdc blo in each st across, turn.
Rows 3 to 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) (26, 28, 30, 32): Rep row 2.
- Do not fasten off and turn band lengthwise.
- With the larger hook: Ch 1, sc 22 (24, 26, 30, 32) (34, 36, 40, 42) evenly along the length of the band, turn. 22 (24, 26, 30, 32) (34, 36, 40, 42) sts
RIGHT FRONT PANEL – BODY
Row 1: (WS) With the larger hook, ch 1, sc in the 1st st, *(sc, dc) in the next st, sk next st, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 22 (24, 26, 30, 32) (34, 36, 40, 42) sts
SHORT – Rows 2 to 38: Rep row 1.
LONG – Rows 2 to 46: Rep row 1.
- If you altered the length of the back panel, adjust rows here before decreasing.
- We will now decrease to create the neckline:

SHORT
Row 39: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sl st in last st, turn.
Row 40: Do not ch 1, sk the sl st, sc in next st, sk next, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 20 (22, 24, 28, 30) (32, 34, 38, 40) sts
Rows 41 to 46: Rep rows 39 and 40 three times. 14 (16, 18, 22, 24) (26, 28, 32, 34) sts
Rows 47 and 48: Rep row 1. Fasten off.
LONG
Row 47: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sl st in last st, turn.
Row 48: Do not ch 1, sk the sl st, sc in next st, sk next, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 20 (22, 24, 28, 30) (32, 34, 38, 40) sts
Rows 49 to 54: Rep rows 47 and 48 three times. 14 (16, 18, 22, 24) (26, 28, 32, 34) sts
Rows 55 and 56: Rep row 1. Fasten off.
LEFT FRONT PANEL
- Repeat the right front panel up until the decrease section.
SHORT
Row 39: Do not ch 1, sk the 1st sc, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 21 (23, 25, 29, 31) (33, 35, 39, 41) sts
Row 40: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next, sl st in last st, turn.
Row 41: Do not ch 1, sk the sl st and the sc, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 19 (21, 23, 27, 29) (31, 33, 37, 39) sts
Row 42: Rep row 40.
Rows 43 to 46: Rep rows 41 and 42 twice. 15 (17, 19, 23, 25) (27, 29, 33, 35) sts
Row 47: Ch 1, sk the sl st, sc in the sc, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 14 (16, 18, 22, 24) (26, 28, 32, 34) sts
Row 48: Rep row 1. Fasten off.

LONG
Row 47: Do not ch 1, sk the 1st sc, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 21 (23, 25, 29, 31) (33, 35, 39,41) sts
Row 48: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next, sl st in last st, turn.
Row 49: Do not ch 1, sk the sl st and the sc, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 19 (21, 23, 27, 29) (31, 33, 37, 39) sts
Row 50: Rep row 48.
Rows 51 to 54: Rep rows 49 and 50 twice. 15 (17, 19, 23, 25) (27, 29, 33, 35) sts
Row 55: Ch 1, sk the sl st, sc in the sc, *(sc, dc) in next, sk next, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. 14 (16, 18, 22, 24) (26, 28, 32, 34) sts
Row 56: Rep row 1. Fasten off.
SEAMING
Position the panels next to each other with the RS facing upward.
Using the mattress stitch technique, insert the needle between the stitches on one side of the fabric, then repeat the process on the opposite side and continue to seam the sides in a zigzag manner. Gently pull the yarn as you go to bring the two sides together.
SEAMING SHOULDERS
- (RS) Place shoulders side by side, using a mattress st seam 14 (16, 18, 22, 24) (26, 28, 32, 34) sts across the shoulders. Repeat on other side. Neck opening 20 sts remaining.

SEAMING SIDES
- Fold the garment RS out, from the bottom (not counting the band) pm on the:
SHORT: 27 (27, 27, 26, 26) (26, 24, 24, 24)th row
LONG: 35 (35, 35, 34, 34) (34, 32, 32, 32)th row
- The armholes should measure approximately 9.25 (9.25, 9.25, 9.75, 9.75) (9.75, 10.75, 10.75, 10.75)″ from armpit to shoulder.
- (RS) Place the front and back panels side by side, seam the sides using a mattress st from the band up to the marker, ensuring that the rows of both panels are aligned.
SLEEVES X2
- The sleeves are crocheted directly onto the body.
- They will be worked in joined and turned rounds: sl st to the 1st st and turn at the end of each round to create a straighter seam and maintain the appearance of the panels.
- With RS facing out, attach yarn at the armpit.

Round 1: (RS) With the larger hook, ch 1, sc in the same st as the yarn, and sc 41 (43, 47, 49, 51) (53, 57, 59, 61) evenly around the armhole, sl st to 1st st, turn. 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) (54, 58, 60, 62) sts
Round 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc in the 1st st, *(sc, dc) in the next st, sk next st rep, from * to last st, sc in last st, sl st in 1st st, turn.
- Go to your size section.
- Every 5 rounds, the decrease rounds will alternate starting from the RS to WS (and vice versa).
XS (S, M)
Rounds 3 to 6: Rep round 2.
Round 7: (RS) Ch 1, sk 1st sc, *(sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, sl st to 1st st, turn. 41 (43, 47) sts
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in second to last st, leave last st unworked, sl st to 1st st, turn. 40 (42, 46) sts
Rounds 9 to 11: Rep round 2.
Rounds 12 to 26: (WS) Rep rounds 7 to 11 three times. 34 (36, 40) sts
Rounds 27 to 28: Rep round 7 and 8. 32 (34, 38) sts
Rounds 29 to 30: Rep round 2.
L (XL, 2XL)
Rounds 3 to 8: Rep round 2.
Round 9: (RS) Ch 1, sk 1st sc, *(sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, sl st to 1st st, turn. 49 (51, 53) sts
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in second to last st, leave last st unworked, sl st to 1st st, turn. 48 (50, 52) sts
Rounds 11 to 13: Rep round 2.
Rounds 14 to 28: (WS) Rep rounds 9 to 13 three times. 42 (44, 46) sts
Rounds 29 to 30: Rep round 9 and 10. 40 (42, 44) sts
Rounds 31 to 32: Rep round 2.
3XL (4XL, 5XL)
Rounds 3 to 10: Rep round 2.
Round 11: (RS) Ch 1, sk 1st sc, *(sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, sl st to 1st st, turn. 57 (59, 61) sts
Round 12: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in second to last st, leave last st unworked, sl st to 1st st, turn. 56 (58, 60) sts
Rounds 13 to 15: Rep round 2.
Rounds 16 to 30: (WS) Rep rounds 11 to 15 three times. 50 (52, 54) sts
Rounds 31 to 32: Rep rounds 11 and 12. 48 (50, 52) sts
Rounds 33 to 34: Rep round 2.
- The cuffs measure 6″ in length but if you still need longer sleeves, adjust the sleeve length here by adding rounds, finishing on a WS and bearing in mind that
1″ = 2.25 rounds. Adjust the second sleeve accordingly.
- Do not fasten off as the cuff will be worked directly from the sleeve.

CUFFS
- (RS) With the smaller hook, a round of sc is done around the sleeve as follows;
- Ch 1 does not count as a st and the beginning st is placed in the 1st st;
- sc 2 means 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts;
XS (M, 2XL, 4XL)
Ch 1, sc 2, *sc2tog, sc, rep from * across, sl st to 1st sc. 22 (26, 30, 34) sts
S (L)
Ch 1, sc 2, *sc2tog, sc, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc 2, sl st to 1st sc. 24 (28) sts
XL (3XL)
Ch 1, *sc2tog, sc, rep from * across, sl st to 1st sc. 28 (32) sts
5XL
Ch 1, sc2tog, *sc2tog, sc, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc2tog, sl st to 1st sc. (34) sts
- Do not fasten off.
- The cuff is now worked directly from the sleeve.
Row 1: Still with the smaller hook, ch 19, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the remaining chs, at the sleeve’s edge, sk the 1st sc and work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 sc of the sleeve’s edge, turn. (18) sts
Row 2: Sk the 2 sl sts of the sleeve’s edge, work 1 sc blo in each st across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in the 1st st, work 1 sc blo in each st across, sl st in each of the next 2 sc of the sleeve’s edge, turn.
- Repeat rows 2 and 3 all the way around the sleeve, ending on a row 2. Do not fasten off.
- Turn sleeve and cuff inside out: (WS) Align each st of the cuff, insert the hook through both sts of the cuff, sl st across to seam the cuff.
- Fasten off.
- Repeat for 2nd sleeve.
EDGING / COLLAR
- The edging and collar are worked directly onto the sweater.
- Attach yarn at the bottom of the right front panel.
- (RS) With the smaller hook, work a row of sc evenly across the length of the right front panel, across the neck and back down the other front panel;

SHORT – Ch 1, sc 54 across right front panel, sc 20 (20, 20, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22) across the neck and 54 sc across the other front panel, turn. 128 (128, 128, 128, 128) (130, 130, 130, 130) sts
LONG – Ch 1, sc 64 across right front panel, sc 20 (20, 20, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22) across the neck and 64 sc across the other front panel, turn. 148 (148, 148, 148, 148) (150, 150, 150, 150) sts
- Do not fasten off.
- The edging is now worked directly onto the sweater.
SHORT & LONG
Row 1: (RS) Still with the smaller hook, ch 7, hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in each of the remaining chs, at the front panel, sk the 1st sc and work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 sc of the front panel, turn. (6) sts
Row 2: Sk the 2 sl sts of the front panel, work 1 hdc blo in each st across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, hdc blo in the 1st st, work 1 hdc blo in each st across, sl st in each of the next 2 sc of the front panel, turn.
- Repeat rows 2 and 3 all the way around the front panel, the neck opening and the other front panel.
- Fasten off and weave in ends.
BLOCKING
- I chose not to block the garment; however, you may to obtain measurements.
- Do not block cuffs, band and/or collar.
POCKETS – OPTIONAL – MAKE 2

RIBBING
Row 1: With the smaller hook, starting with a slip knot – keep a long tail for seaming – ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in remaining chs, turn. (4) sts
Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo in 1st st and across remaining sts, turn.
Rows 3 to 16: Rep row 2.
- Do not fasten off and turn band lengthwise.
- With the larger hook: Ch 1, sc 16 evenly along the length of the band (1 st per row). (16) sts
MAIN PART
Row 1: Still with the larger hook, ch 1, sc in 1st st, *(sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. (16) sts
Rows 2 to 14: Rep row 1. Pocket should measure approximately 6″ wide X 6″ high.
- Fasten off.
- Try on the garment for placement of the pocket and secure with stitch markers.
- With yarn and needle, seam the pocket with a whip st.
- Repeat for 2nd pocket.

If you need more inspiration check out:
If you need more inspiration, Try my Bomber Sweater in either the Zipper or Button version, both worked in the beautiful herringbone crochet stitch.
For an extra-cozy project, make one of my bestsellers, the Emilie Oversized Cardi, featuring a gorgeous knit-look stitch and a relaxed, oversized fit.
Or have fun playing with color by creating your own unique version of the Patchwork Cardi.
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